Small Things

"We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean, but the ocean would be less because of that missing drop. We can do no great things, only small things with great love." Mother Teresa

 I often put a quote that inspires me at the bottom of my emails, hoping other people will like it too. I used the one above from Mother Teresa the past couple of weeks. It’s funny how when you put an idea in your head the theme just keeps popping up over and over. Small Things.

Today was my day to work in the office at church counting the Sunday collection. Dennis asks why I like to count the one dollar bills; they are so tedious and someone always folds them up into tiny origami birds; I don’t know why I like to; maybe its because they are small contributions that add up to a big contribution. And sometimes you get a really cool bird! A small thing done with great love. 

We took Eliot off to college at Northeastern in Boston over Labor Day week end, a Big Thing, made possible by lots of small daily contributions from Eliot himself and all the teachers, mentors, coaches, friends and family members who supported him. Small things done with great love. I am so grateful to everyone who helped get him there.

 And of course these days my focus always comes back to my campaign. I realized the other day (When someone told me I had to get something done for them immediately!!!!) that nearly all of the friends helping on my campaign work full time jobs and most of them are parents. My campaign is not their first, second or even third priority. But they still give generously of their time. Every small thing done for me is appreciated. Posting a sign, sending a kind email, delivering a sign to a friend, ordering balloons or envelopes, liking and sharing my page, inviting a friend to an event, inviting me to an event, even just encouraging words when you see me on the street: “Go Get Em’ Girl!”

 Small Things can mean a great deal. Big things too, but they get their due, it’s the small things we overlook.

12-23-08: What is your house made of?

We were driving back from Tsavo East; a large National Park in Kenya noticing the beautiful, simple construction of the mud and wattle homes in the villages along the way. They were the poorest of accommodations but still inviting. The small country villages along the back roads were bucolic, and small groups of children stood along the road waving and smiling. I have read that country life is getting harder and harder for Kenyan farmers and herders, Clean water and fuel, which used to be available, are becoming more difficult to find and expensive to buy. We passed water stations where a ten-liter bottle (the most a woman could comfortably balance on her head) cost five shillings, a significant amount for people whose livelihood is not necessarily cash based. Despite their hard life, these people seemed genuinely happy, well fed, and smartly dressed.

Looking at these homes, Dolma was reminded of a conversation we had when she was visiting San Francisco from Deli more than 10 years ago. She had just moved into the CNN bureau house and was filling me in on her life there. She recalled me asking, “What is your house made of?” I was still working as a planner for Santa Clara County and the question seemed to me an important one: What is the climate is like? What resources are available? … A hint at a culture through its architecture. She recalled being offended by the question and surprised at my ignorance: did I think she was living in a mud and wattle hut? To her the question was about class, lifestyle and prestige. I had never thought about it that way from my limited Californian perspective. Is your house made of marble, stone, brick, wood, corrugated metal and torn plastic tarps? Do you pull a piece of cardboard over you every night? I guess it only makes a difference at the lower end of the continuum.

But I can’t think that the happy children along the road thought too much about it.

Rules of the Road - Shall we drive to Mombassa?

Sorry its been so long since last news from the Smullens, we've been off the grid for the past 12 days!

Posting from approximately December 19th:


After 3 weeks in Nairobi, we decided to spend the Christmas Holiday in Watamu, a small coastal village north of Mombassa. We were told that there was a new road, it would take about six hours to drive (eight with stops "at the most"). Dolma and I were to drive out with the kids and spend a few days before Roger and Bunny arrived from San Jose and Mexico City respectivley. A brand new road we were told, much nicer than the previous semi-paved Kenyan version of a major cross country route joining Kenya's two largest cities.

Mombassa was founded by Arab traders sometime before the 12th century. Because of this influence, the current population of the entire region is mostly Muslim and the architecture has a very arabic feel. It is a favorite resort spot for Europeans and Kenyans, a short 45 minute flight from Nairobi with a string of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. This juxtaposition of cultures makes for an extremely interesting scene (imagine Italian women in bikini thongs and Kenyan women wearing full burkas (called ninjas here). Kenyans pride themselves on their religious tolerance and this is openess to other cultures is certainly put to the test here.

Okay, so our reasoning was, lets leave around 7 a.m. gas up the car and get a head start out of town, arriving in Watamu in the late afternoon. It would have been a little faster if that plan didn't put us in downtown Nairobi right in the middle of rush hour traffic. After the morning commute gridlock you would expect in the government and business center of any City of over 4 million people (unless you were only thinking about your first gin and tonic at your Indian Ocean beach cottage) we were just to the edge of the city and the beginning of the new Mombassa Road (so new in fact it was not yet fully paved).

The road department in Kenya doesn't believe in actually closing a road during construction, so there we were along with construction vehicles, huge trucks, matatus (private hop-on shuttles) and other cars winding in an out of sections of paved road, dirt road, semi demolished road, and partially paved road. Before we were even at the beach, Dolma was on the phone with Bridget the travel agent booking flights for Roger and Bunny from Nairobi and return tickets for the rest of us. Bridget was able to work her magic and squeeze all of us on even though it was high season.

After this educational experience, I thought that I should do my civic duty and publish a few rules of the road for anyone who might try to drive on any highways in Kenya:

1. In general you should always stay to the left side of the road. Exceptions include if you see a pot hole; farm animal or any person or thing in your way, then it is perfectly okay to move to the right side of the road and stay there as long as you please until another pothole, animal or person or larger car or truck traveling in the opposite direction blocks your path.

2. Beaware of potholes; the roads in Kenya are so poorly maintained that its hard to see the road through the potholes.

3. Be ready to honk at anything that is in your path traveling slower than you. This is usually not considered rude by most people -- its just to let people know you are there and they should get out of your way. Understand that you if someone honks at you, you are also expected to get out of the way.

4. If you do want to be rude (or let someone know that you do not appreciate their driving skills) flash your lights at them multiple times.

5. There are no posted speed limits (unless you are in a national park -- and this is just so you don't kill any animals) Drive as fast as you are able.

6. There is generally one lane in each direction, unless you feel that there is enough room for another lane either in between the two lanes or along a generous shoulder (does not necessarily have to be on your side of the road).

7. There are very few traffic lights; larger intersections are almost always roundabouts; cars in the roundabout have the right away; unless a bigger truck than you comes along (see below).

8. No matter the circumstance the largest vehicle on the road has the right of way (even if they are traveling straight at you in your lane -- you are expected to get out of the way)

9. Expect police roadblocks. Traditionally these were just a way for the police to collect bribes from anyone doing anything that the police could say was illegal. From what I have been told, the police corruption has been significantly reduced by the current government. This was never put to the test for us because luckily we almost always traveled in Bunny's car with UN diplomatic plates. (Police in Kenya are not allowed to pull over cares with diplomatic plates. If they try, you know they are not legitamate.)

The most frightening part of the Mombassa Road was that people did not slow down in the construction zone. At one unpaved section, the dust was so thick we could not see more than 10 ft. in front of us. Large trucks were traveling towards us in the right lane; and a string of crazy matatus, tired of waiting behind the long line of slower moving trucks, had created their own lane heading towards us on our left. Our driver, Ferris had led us in a prayer for a safe journey before we left; and thankfully our prayers were answered. We saw only one, not too serious accident along the way. which leads me to my final rule of the road:

10. If you can fly instead!







http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&abauth=b3b472d6:wgI8_hMSp5s0bwRHYy_Tq1VY7hY&output=html&q=watamu,+kenya&zoom=9

The Great Rift Valley

12/12/08 Kenyan Independence Day
East African Great Rift Valley, Kenya

There are a few “big” days from my life that stand out, for reasons that are not entirely clear in hindsight. I am clear however, that today will be one of those days for me and hopefully for my children. We finally made it outside the diplomatic neighborhoods and city limits to explore some of the beautiful countryside of Kenya. Our destination was Lake Naivasha. We heard it was a “must see” but didn’t have any information beyond that other than: “Go to the Lake Naivasha Country Club for lunch”. I was skeptical of even this advice, because the “White Kenyans” as they are called have different ideas about what is and isn’t worthwhile.

As we drove (slowly) out of town past Westgate Shopping Centre the scene changed dramatically and suddenly. We got our first look at how most Nairobi residents live, in rows and rows of small corrugated metal shacks, which are Nairobi’s slums. There are more than 2,000,000 people living in about 168 slums with basically none of the public infrastructure we take for granted (water, sewer, roads). Roughly half of Nairobi’s population lives in these slums. The largest and most famous slum is Kibera, home to an estimated 1,000,000 people. We had skirted Kibera on our way to Nairobi National Park last weekend but didn’t even get a peak at what we saw today. Eliot had asked earlier in the week, where all the poor people lived. Now he knows. Even Thomas was transfixed by the scene of thousands of people, dust, metal, scrap wood and surprisingly a vibrant fruit and vegetable market.

Further and further out of town the shacks and the people became more spread apart, the dust settled and we discovered the incredibly entertaining car game of counting donkeys (If you are between the ages of five and 42). Lake Naivasha in the Rift Valley is about a two-hour drive northwest from Nairobi, depending on traffic. Donkey counting lasted for about an hour, the bag of food lasted for about 5 minutes and then we were in trouble. Here the landscape was open, dry and covered in volcanic rock, similar to the approach to Mt Lassen just outside Redbluff before you start to climb.

We passed Mt. Longonot, a dormant volcano to the west, another popular Nairobi day trip. Then in the middle of nowhere: rows and rows of white tents. They looked like greenhouses from far away; but no, Satinder told me, these are refugee camps. Violence had erupted across Kenya following a tightly contested presidential election between candidates from different ethnic groups, and people fled to escape. An estimated 100,000 people had been displaced mostly in Western Kenya.

I had heard of the Great Rift Valley before, but approaching it around a twisted corner was like accidentally stumbling upon the Grand Canyon. It was stunning! The valley was enormous, and beautiful. Eliot said the sky looked like heaven. The Great Rift Valley is one of the natural wonders of the world and runs from Syria to Mozambique. It was formed by seismic activity, which is obvious when you drive through it. The part in East Africa is sometimes called the cradle of humanity because prehistoric hominid remains have been discovered here. (We were able to see some of these skulls at the National Museum of Nairobi when we visited there earlier in the week.) The valley is huge even at its narrowest point.

After surviving my fear of heights, combined with the narrow mountain roads, matatus, and crazy truck drivers, we arrived at Lake Naivasha Country Club. A green and lush private lake front property, the Club includes a dock, guest cottages, swimming pool, wedding and conference facilities, a restaurant and bar within a large glen of acacia trees. The setting was relaxing, the food uninspiring and the gin and tonic absolutely perfect.

Since it is late and I must go to sleep; I will have to tell you about Crescent Island in another post; but below are some photos. I keep hearing that Kenya just grabs hold of people and they can never leave. No one has been able to explain this to me, but after seeing Lake Naivasha and hiking Crescent Island I think I am understanding just a bit…


To be continued.

Crescent Island Lake Naivasha

Nairobi National Park

Here are some shots from our first real natural adventure. I have had limited internet access so I am sorry I have not kept up with my posts. But the kids's blogs are relatively up to date. Thanks for all your comments! It really brightens their day (and mine). Blessings to everyone. I will try to write more (and upload my first imovie project) later. Dede

Nairobi National Park

Photos by Dede and Eliot

The middle of the night on the other side of the world

I just spent two hours sifting through emails and school studywiz posts and a feeling of Christmas Joy came over me! This year, I actually get to focus on celebrating Christmas; a previously unpublished reason for taking this Safari. It is simply amazing what we all put ourselves through this time of year. I hope I don't sound too grinchy; I really do like the parties, the presents, the decorations and visiting with extended family. But honestly I am often too tired to enjoy it all.

We got back today from a visit to the less sanitized version of Nairobi. "City Park" is a village produce market with stand after stand of every kind of fruit and vegetable piled high. There are hundreds of stall owners haggling over the price of maize, mangoes, avocados, plums, apples, squash, bananas, okra, etc.; all of it the freshest and most beautiful I have ever seen. Dolma is already a pro at getting the best price and the best selection of everything; I guess her years in Delhi have paid off. I decided to bring the kids to show them some of the reality of this place. They were a little overwhelmed but some day I hope they appreciate what they saw. They loved the fruit but the ground was too dirty, the sun too hot, and the activity boring (I on the other hand was fascinated). They saw their first third world beggars, which are surprisingly scarce in this country. Only the handicapped people beg, by law I think. After seeing this bounty, it is hard to understand why people are still starving in this country when the soil seems so fertile and the climate so mild.

The day further defined the dramatic chasm between the wealthy and poor here. It is this chasm that has lead to the high crime rate here. We are located in a Nairobi suburb called Runda. This area is a part of a larger wealthy area which includes the American Embassy, the Canadian Embassy and the U.N. We are not actually in the U.N. Compound, where Bunny works but not far in a secured neighborhood. The Bindras are basically the first residents in a new section of the neighborhood with huge houses going up all around us. There is a security team that patrols the entire neighborhood and questions anyone that they don't know. On top of that the property is surrounded by a tall wall with an electric fence. There is a gate house with a twenty-four hour security guard. Right now the two night guards and the evening guard dogs and I are the only people awake. It will be my job to turn on the house security before I go to bed. All the windows are bolted and alarmed. (I can say I feel safer here than at home!)

In addition to the main house and the guard house there is the servants quarters. The cook Susan, and the housekeeper/nanny, Elizabeth, live here from Monday morning until Saturday evening when they go home to their families for their day off on Sunday. Dolma has hired a second housekeeper/nanny, Nora, to take care of me and the children while we are here. They work about a 12-13 hour shift with some time off in the afternoon. This is expected of us and an important part of the economy. These women are among the best paid workers in their village. In addition Dolma and Bunny share a driver Ferris, a very cautious man, who lives in town but also works long hours, from about 8:00 a.m. until 8:00 p.m. (I think he has already had his limit of Thomas!)

Now, I really must go and try to sleep; I hear Thomas fussing in the room we are sharing. My thoughts are turning to Roger somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean - Safe journey, we miss you. (Thank you Mary for picking him up.)

Love and Blessings to all of you!

Kenya Under the Duress of Jet Lag

Its Monday afternoon and I survived the red-eye flight from London to Nairobi(and our first day of home-schooling)! I only have a brief amount of time to update. We are so happy to see Dolma and family and are settling in nicely to their beautiful home. Dolma has spent the last five months getting the house ready for them and us (her first visitors). The children are adjusting well with just a few embarrassing temper tantrums about sleep/food etc. I keep telling them that Kenyan children are always well behaved and I might trade them in if I find some better behaved children! That worked a little bit. I think it is a real treat for us to spend so much time together and I did enjoy the school lessons. Must go for now. I have many impressions of Nairobi but no time to share them now. But just to say there is the sanitized version and the un-sanitized version as Bunny described it and we are definately living in the former....(We are safe and being careful so you need not worry about that).
Love and Light
Dede

HAPPY THANKSGIVING

So much to be thankful for in my life. It doesn't seem fair...

I just pulled our Duck out of the Oven and we are waiting for our relatively small group of "family" to arrive. Barry Mellish, my English Friend from Almaden Valley Youth Ministry, his wife Julia and daughter Helena are coming as well as our cousin Katie Jo Dolan, a North Dakota Transplant. We also made a small Turkey Breast because Eliot couldn't stand Thanksgiving without some Turkey. But other than that it will be a pretty unconventional meal. We found some delicious things to eat however at the Borough Market near the London Bridge Station. I recommend this market for anyone who likes food!

By now we are looking at the tail end of our London week and I feel I can re-write the book London with Kids. I am still in love with my Iphone which makes getting about in a strange place very easy. (The little blue dot tells me just where I am). Love the public transportation and the very friendly and helpful people. We take back what we said about November not being a good time to visit London. We have the City and especially all the tourist spots to ourselves. The only challenge is the home schooling and getting Thomas to eat anything...

Missing the rest of you in Los Gatos, Michigan and Benicia...

First Day In London

Wow! It seems no matter what I do with my particular slice of it, the time passes with regularity and here we are in London, 25 Cheval Place, Kinghtsbridge London SW7 1EW to be exact. It seems ages ago when Dolma and Bunny told us that they wanted to meet us for dinner to tell us some "news". A third child? Moving to the south bay (we wish)? or a new job for the U.N.E.P. in Kenya? What? You're kidding right? It got me thinking about the choices we make in our lives and how they lead us here or there, & how easy it is to just let life happen with out much thought. Does that sound like a mid-life crisis?

So here we are in London, trying to avoid jet lag; loving the first images of this very urban place where everything has a quaint name like Princes Garden, Ennismore Mews, and Yeoman's Row without a Garden, Mews or Yeoman in site; just lots of expensive shops, museums, and beautiful walk-up townhouses.

Much Love & Light, Dede


(P.S. Friends & family, please comment back to kids pages -- they will miss you all and get a thrill hearing from you. You can comment annonomously as long as you put your name in the base of the text so that I know that you are not some weird stalker!)